Over the last few weeks we have created a cocktail of rivers. First a touch of Danube, then a good dose of Main and Rhine, with a little bit of Niers added. Some added Jenever flavour is provided by the Maas, with just a dash of Waal and finally a drop more Rhine.

I realise that I have not given my country enough credit. It has far more nice countryside than I realised and it was great to cycle through it. There were also some pleasant ferry crossings.

We had a clear endpoint in mind and with a forecast of thundery showers it made sense to plan a stay in a B&B. Well, you know, all good plans … Not a single lodging to be found within 20 km (apart from one excessively expensive one). So, camping it had to be. This was still nearly 5 km away from town, but we managed to get there OK. Then I realised I had left my rugsack in the cafe where we had scanned the net for accommodation. You know, with passport, payment cards and various other valuables. Graham was the hero, as so often. He cycled the whole way back and fortunately retrieved my bag. The cafe owner told him he had stayed open after his normal closing time so as to be able to give it back.

Our campsite has a common room and this is where we are, writing the blog while watching Ajax on tv , seeing extreme lightning through the safe window and hearing pretty thunderous thunder (and joking about sleeping the night in here …)

We are noticing that we are becoming chronically tired, we miss our children and their spouses and Bella the husky, so it is time to go home. Tomorrow we are meeting some Dutch friends from my medical school time, but from Friday we will make beeline for the ferry. Graham is booking the crossing at this very moment and so we should be home by Sunday.

Oh, it’s been so lovely and warm. It makes camping so much easier.

We kept going along the Rhine.

I was quite keen to go into Bonn, given its former status as the seat of government. So we had a little wander.

This weekend Cologne was the location of a massive Gamers’ Convention, so we realised (late on) that the campsites were likely to be full. We were too late to make it all the way to our friends who live near Cologne, and anyway, we knew that they’d be watching football, one of them passionately supporting Koeln, the local team, and the other equally passionately in favour of Borrusia Dortmund. So, and I am saying this in the most light hearted way, an evening of interactive fireworks might be on the cards. (We discovered later that the Cologne supporter had walked out of the pub and went home before the end of the game).

Therefore we took a certain risk going a long way off our path to find a campsite. As we arrived: “Campsite full”. Fortunately they let us in anyway. That was lovely as we ended up camping on the beach 20 meters from a small lake, which we could, and did, swim in.

From the campsite it was only a half day away from our friends. We had visited them in March but there is always a lot to catch up on. Lots of sitting in their garden, and lots to eat and drink, out for lovely Italian food in the evening.

On Sunday we went for a trip, which included crossing the Rhine by ferry. We had not done this before, so we were pleased to make up for this.

After our trip Juergen went to collect his 95 year old mother, so that she could spend some time with us. Oma, as she is addressed, is extremely mobile but her memory lets her down intermittently. However, she remembered her experiences in WWII very well and was keen to tell us about these. About the fear of bombings, the need to make sure not to let any light show from the house at night, about both her brothers dying on the battlefield. I asked her if Germans in general supported Hitler in the ‘30s and ‘40s. She was very adamant that this was not the case. Nein nein, but nobody could say this publicly. When the American army arrived at the end of the war, however, she was not sure what to think of them. She remembers seeing a lorry with black soldiers in it while she was out in the street with her sister. Not just were they the ‘enemy’, it was also the first time that she saw black people. As she related this memory to us, she visibly relived her anxiety. The story went on: The soldiers stopped the lorry and put some biscuits by the side of the road – and now, in telling this, oma was reliving her happiness. Biscuits, a whole packet of it! Her hands showed the size. It had been so difficult to find food, and they had all been so hungry.

On Monday it was time for Firjeh and Juergen to go back to work, and for us to resume our journey.

As we had already seen how much industry there is around Cologne, and especially in the whole stretch northwards, we wanted to find an alternative route. Well, that is to say, Graham and I had a brief discussion. Graham: It could be interesting to see this industry. Me: Yeah, maybe….but not in a good way. So that settled it.

Using Juergen’s local knowledge and Google, we found a lovely rural route to near the source of the river Niers. Endless open fields, with distant horizons, punctuated by trees and farms. It was great to be able to enjoy that so close to the industrial Ruhrgebiet.

The path next to the Niers was lovely in a different way, maybe even lovelier. There were trees that offered welcome shade. The river was tiny to begin with and I find that quite appealing. Until the end it remained ‘manageable’.

Now finally today. We got closer to the Dutch border and I was happy to be near the Netherlands (not Holland here). The architecture looking more and more familiar, the way streets were paved. I had to wait, though, because the Niers stays on the German side of the border until just before it flows into the Maas, which is at this stage in Holland (Netherlands feels a bit long).

Now, in the evening (Tuesday), I am VERY happy. We are sitting in a Dutch looking cafe, having delicious food, looking out over the river Maas and speaking Dutch to the waitresses. We had almost not made it though. This afternoon our path took us in a massive loop, after which there were no more signs in our direction. Google helped in a limited way but even then we found our way blocked by a fence, with no apology, explanation or alternative route. Graham thought it best to do the last 20 km along the road but I could not bear the thought and suggested we’d just camp where we were and tackle the problem in the morning. The total delay must have been about two hours and I was exhausted. In the end we found a way out of the mess and I am pleased to say we made it to the intended campsite in time to have some food locally.

Oh, and by the way, both Mischa and Kai have had their wedding anniversaries recently.

I am writing this in a restaurant that is next to a small lake. A bit further along is our tent, right next to the beach. The sort of place where you can’t not swim. So we swam, for a short while.

So this is where we are. But how did we get here? I need to dig into my memory and the first thing that comes to mind is the Lorelei. Lorelei is a woman who – as I remember from my primary school- sat atop a rock combing her golden hair in such a bewitching manner that enchanted sailors crashed their ships. According to google there are different versions of the story. For instance that she threw herself into the Rhine in despair over a faithless lover then arose as a siren who bewitched sailors.

Actually, there is more to say about the second day in Mainz, when we met Adnan. He gave us an alternative tour of Mainz, starting with the roof of his student accommodation (secret: we weren’t supposed to be there. It felt like a Bruce Willis film.).

In the evening we went out for flammkuchen, which is like an ultra thin crust pizza.

The Rhine cycle path started off terribly, with lots of industry and noisy roads but this was soon forgotten when we found ourselves in places like this:

That night we camped across the river from the Lorelei rock. She had the night off and all ships got through without incident.

Yes, David, there are a lot more ships on the Rhine than on the Danube and the Main, some really big barges, a lot with the Dutch flag. The seem to be less hydro-dams and associated locks on the Rhine compared to the Danube.

Onwards.

We got to Koblenz, where the Mosel flows into the Rhine.

More importantly it is the site where Graham once went on holiday with his parents. He can’t remember all that much but it involves under-age drinking with strangers. We spent a bit of time walking around town and it is pleasant enough.

From a cycling point of view it was a slow day, mostly because the path was very bumpy (in unexpected places). Slowly but surely we reached the campsite near Bad Breisig. On arrival we discovered that this has featured in the Guardian as one of the top ten European campsites that can be reached by public transport. All a bit random, those judgments, but there were some lovely views of wooded hills all around. We had a very nice time there. It always helps to have a space where people can sit together at a table and be protected from the rain (although this was not relevant). We had our food with 2 Canadian women who live in Rotterdam and who just got a visa to stay for a year, and a Dutch couple. It turned out that one of the Canadian women attends the same course as the Dutch man, so they knew each other by sight. Such coincidence. Later we were joined by a group of Germans. Of course the others brought up Brexit at the earliest opportunity and it highlighted yet again that these international get-togethers will be a less natural occurrence.

The night was super cold and everything was soaking wet this morning, even though there had not been a drop of rain.

We covered the last 220km of the Main cycle path in three days. That meant we pretty much had to get on with cycling. However, we also managed to stop off at a number of lovely towns. Mildenberg was the best.

After my initial gripe with the Main cycle path, there was a clear improvement, as in fewer noisy roads next to the path, more river and more nature. Still not as good as the Danube.

As we approached Frankfurt medieval towns were replace by modern ones.

What is at the end of the Main? A city called Mainz and the Rhine. The cycle path along the Rhine will be a Eurovelo route again, which may mean it is more attractive.

Shortly after joining the Rhine Graham mused that we might have seen some of the water already, in the stretch of the Danube that is upriver from the sink holes. That would be too much of a lucky coincidence of course, but the thought made me smile.

By some stroke of luck Mainz is also where our good friend Adnan lives. He could not meet us today, so we spent the day lingering in the city. The 2 museums we wanted to visit were closed on Monday (Places close in Germany, for lunch, for Sunday, and also a weekday – we still have not quite got used to it). We did manage to see St Stephen’s church with the stained glass windows designed by Chagal, and the Dom, which is oppressive and unloving.

So when we woke up on the 14th I wished Graham a Happy Birthday and we started again.

We set off from the lovely farmhouse campsite and settled into a rhythm. Suddenly we heard a car tearing past and coming to a screeching halt just in front of us. It was the campsite hostess with her Russian trainee. They had wanted a picture of us with Tekel, and of course we were happy to oblige.

On we went, using route recommendations offered by someone we had bumped into a day or two earlier. Yet again, however, we needed directions. These were happily provided by two women we asked for help. When they had explained our route, a thought occurred to one of them. Maybe we would want the scenic route, on the new cycle path. Yes, we did. So very happily she explained the alternative route in detail. My point is about time. People have time here and are willing to spend it for the sake of others. Another example: (and sorry to bring up our manky tent pole again): We stopped off at some iron mongers in the hope of buying a splint for said broken one, and THREE PEOPLE spent 20 MINUTES looking for some piece of pipe that would fit the bill. Then they did not want to charge us for what they came up with. Maybe it’s the same in the English countryside but I am watching it with complete amazement.

Anyway, onwards. We reached a lovely town and from then on the Main cycle path was a much more pleasant experience. The towns are indeed a great delight. And in between pretty good as well.

We reached our target of a particularly picturesque town. Our special treat was to be a ‘Gasthof’, a break from camping. Oooh, the treat of a soft bed and a comfortable shower. This took us a while to find and then we took our time to get ready for our meal out.

But what shock: the restaurant we had in mind was closed already. Nothing else nearby. Were we going to have another food deprived birthday? … … … In the end: no. Phew. In fact we found a lovely place, with a lovely man who served behind the bar and all the tables with great verve and pleasantness. He understood our need for vegetarian food, and for tasting a selection of local wines. So a great evening was had.

The next day we had a lovely breakfast. Then a rainy trip, but never mind, we have our ponchos. Lovely towns again …

… and lovely meals with a selection of local wines again

Friday 17 August

A few days to cover: On Monday, the transition from the canal to the Main.

To me the next stretch was a great disappointment. We were mostly cycling next to noisy roads, with the river Main rarely in sight. I started worrying that we had followed recommendations (“if you like the Donau path you must do the Main”) without investigating ourselves whether this is where we like to be. For me the calm of cycle paths and being surrounded by nature is nourishing and relaxing. And NO TRAFFIC.

So on Graham’s birthday we decided to take a different cycle path, away from the river. At first all was well.

Then we, as we realised later, took a wrong turning. We ended up on a cycle path with a very poor surface, meaning we had to walk for periods of time to protect the tyres. Moreover, we had to conquer a steep uphill stretch. That was quite satisfying, actually, but the subsequent descent was more than the breaks could handle and we ended going with breakneck speed, on the skiddy surface. Next thing: tyre puncture. This time good and proper. Like, completely flat. We were a few kilometres beyond a campsite, so we walked back while trying to take the weight of the wheel as much as possible, managed to mend the tyre.

Then we started thinking about food. Oh dear, no shop or restaurant closer than 5km. Could we get there in the evening without knowing for sure if the tyre would hold? Hunger provided the answer and we ended up with a decent Greek take-away.

As we arrived back at the campsite with piles of Greek food, we got talking to some German campers (two men, their wives made themselves scarce). As always, Brexit came up. As always, the men expressed puzzlement and disappointment. For all the Germans we have talked to, the EU is about togetherness and sharing and peace. And every time now the subject comes up I become tearful. That (the tears) does not happen in Britain. I think the difference is the nature of the discussion. In Britain we talk about the economic consequences of Brexit, or the lack of staff in the NHS or similar ‘hard’ matters. Here the subjective experience is about human values. The economic consequences are recognised, both for Britain and the rest of Europe, but it is not the main focus.

Just one more thing before I forget, about the disappointment about the path and the noisy cars. I said to Graham that I need to re-assess my expectations, that I should not seek the nourishment of nature but enjoy the beautiful old towns. ‘Ha’, was all he answered and he is right of course.

So, while the day had a good ending, as a whole it was not a day worthy of being called a birthday day. So the following day we did Take Two. Another birthday, I mean. But I will tell you about that another time. (Sneaky peak: this one was much better).

You may have found this morning’s blog post, which was written while we left our stuff to dry in the bright sunshine.

Well, when we came back to our patch, we were in for a shock. First we discovered that another tent pole had broken (you remember about the first?), then that our front tyre was flat. Strange goings-on. Between our holidays (we are not complaining) Graham had tried hard to replace the broken segment and to get some spares. Since this was not possible, we have made do with splints and tape. Now we have to find a makeshift second splint and use even more tape. Strong wind and rain are forecast for tonight.

As for the tyre, we had a little gaggle of concerned people around us, who were trying to be helpful. There was no obvious problem, so we decided to just pump it up (did Rees Mogg say anything about split infinitives? I would like to use this opportunity to state how much I loathe the man. I will not mention him again) and see how we got on. At first that seemed to be the right call but we had to pump more and more frequently as we went along. So it was changing tyre time, by the side of our cycle path and the canal. Given what we have learnt about Germans on our trip, I sort of knew this would happen: within a few minutes a couple stopped and took over. Had we really looked that clumsy? I (but not Graham) felt that their intervention represented our failure, but we were not complaining. Anyway tyre was replaced successfully and bike put together again.

Monday.

There is more to say about the locks. There are 4 particularly deep ones – around 25 metres- near the highest point of the canal. To my untrained eyes that is quite an engineering feat.

We were surprised, however, at how little traffic there was on the canal. The odd massive barge and one or two cruise ships. By the time we got to Nuremberg -to the north of the 4 biggest locks- there were a lot of cruise ships, all pouring out tourists onto coaches. Nuremberg has of course an interesting history and we would have liked to view the stadium where Hitler held his rallies, but we decided to push on.

There is also more to say about the new canal. Graham, who is a wizz on google, had not found much information about it. One particular blog was rather negative about its looks. I feel defensive on behalf of the canal. There was a lot of pretty vegetation on its banks and majestic looking trees on the other side of our path for long stretches.

We’re a bit behind with the blog, again dogged by lack of wifi. The day before yesterday we said goodbye to the Danube. That was genuinely upsetting.

Sorry, Anne, still no map, even though this would be relevant here.

From the number of pictures shown here, you can guess this was an emotionally significant event.

There are 2 canals, on from the 1800s and one from last century. They are mostly flowing next to each other. The old one is no longer fit-for-purpose (sorry Rees Mogg) but pretty and, (sorry Rees Mogg) the new one wide and proud. We were pleasantly surprised at how beautiful the surroundings still were and in that sense the loss of the Danube was easily compensated for.

Some interesting info about the canals: they were built to cross the watershed between the area from which water ultimately flows into the North Sea and the area that leads to the Black Sea (see more about this tomorrow). That means it goes up and then down again, and that means there are locks. Loads of them, some very deep. And pumps of course, to get the water back up the hill.

A fellow camper told us another, more juicy, piece of information: a secondary use for the new canal was as a protective shield against the Russians during the Cold War. Since apparently the rivers tend to flow East-West, a waterway that runs North-South would be just the ticket. Explosives were situated along the east bank to enable flooding of a larger area. The explosives have now been removed, hence we are still here.

Yesterday was a rainy day, the sort of day when really what you want to do is sit indoors in an oversized jumper and sip hot coffee (or so). We had kilometres to cover, however, so we packed our soaking wet tent, put on our ponchos and got on our way. Tough going, really. However, there was much to be enjoyed: the countryside was very pretty. No rain can spoil that. And then, after the sun came out, we reached the watershed moment we had been looking forward to.

The place has been marked by an artistic installation: a large granite wall on both sides of the canal.

Fast forward … medical test in London (good result – we count our blessings), graduation ceremony in Liverpool, train travel to Spain (crossing the Pyrenees) to visit Chris’s mum for a week in Spain, together with the kids and their wives, train travel back to Vienna (crossing the Ahlberg Pass in the Alps) to pick up the bike.

But first, million thanks to Kathi and Wolfi for looking after Tekel whilst we were away, for getting her serviced, and keeping her Match Fit by taking her on a long ride along the Danube:

Now we are on our way home like this:

• Train from Vienna to Regensburg
• Danube cycle path from Regensburg to Kelheim
• Danube-Main canal from Kelheim to Bamberg (about 170km)
• River Main from Bamberg to Mainz (about 400km)
• River Rhine from Mainz to Hook of Holland (about 680km)
• … and then to London

(although if the news from the UK continues to get worse then …)

We are planning to be back in early/mid-September. Chris and I have been discussing whether to do the blog again. On the one hand, people have left lots of nice comments and been engaged with our travels. On the other hand, it was quite time-consuming not just writing the blog but especially finding wifi, RUNNING OUT OF DATA ALLOWANCE, and getting the connection working. In addition, I’ve been offered an exciting volunteering opportunity at the GLA when I get back, combining chatbots and machine learning, so I would like to prepare for that.

But, as we were leaving Spain, 92-year old Oma (gran) said that she was looking forward to Part Two of the blog. So that swung it! Chris and I will continue the blog, we will continue to share the postings, but we will not post each day. We look forward to posting our pictures and seeing your feedback.

Our first day back on the road will be from Regensburg to Kelheim, then starting the trip north on the Danube-Main canal.

Chris will also be posting pictures on Instagram at: https://www.instagram.com/christinevanduuren/

Love,

Graham and Chris