A few days to cover: On Monday, the transition from the canal to the Main.

To me the next stretch was a great disappointment. We were mostly cycling next to noisy roads, with the river Main rarely in sight. I started worrying that we had followed recommendations (“if you like the Donau path you must do the Main”) without investigating ourselves whether this is where we like to be. For me the calm of cycle paths and being surrounded by nature is nourishing and relaxing. And NO TRAFFIC.

So on Graham’s birthday we decided to take a different cycle path, away from the river. At first all was well.

Then we, as we realised later, took a wrong turning. We ended up on a cycle path with a very poor surface, meaning we had to walk for periods of time to protect the tyres. Moreover, we had to conquer a steep uphill stretch. That was quite satisfying, actually, but the subsequent descent was more than the breaks could handle and we ended going with breakneck speed, on the skiddy surface. Next thing: tyre puncture. This time good and proper. Like, completely flat. We were a few kilometres beyond a campsite, so we walked back while trying to take the weight of the wheel as much as possible, managed to mend the tyre.

Then we started thinking about food. Oh dear, no shop or restaurant closer than 5km. Could we get there in the evening without knowing for sure if the tyre would hold? Hunger provided the answer and we ended up with a decent Greek take-away.

As we arrived back at the campsite with piles of Greek food, we got talking to some German campers (two men, their wives made themselves scarce). As always, Brexit came up. As always, the men expressed puzzlement and disappointment. For all the Germans we have talked to, the EU is about togetherness and sharing and peace. And every time now the subject comes up I become tearful. That (the tears) does not happen in Britain. I think the difference is the nature of the discussion. In Britain we talk about the economic consequences of Brexit, or the lack of staff in the NHS or similar ‘hard’ matters. Here the subjective experience is about human values. The economic consequences are recognised, both for Britain and the rest of Europe, but it is not the main focus.

Just one more thing before I forget, about the disappointment about the path and the noisy cars. I said to Graham that I need to re-assess my expectations, that I should not seek the nourishment of nature but enjoy the beautiful old towns. ‘Ha’, was all he answered and he is right of course.

So, while the day had a good ending, as a whole it was not a day worthy of being called a birthday day. So the following day we did Take Two. Another birthday, I mean. But I will tell you about that another time. (Sneaky peak: this one was much better).